Social Media Fail (Calvin Klein)

Within the past decade, social media has become one of the most widely used marketing tools that are consumed by numerous businesses to promote their brand identities. With the assistance of social media platforms like Instagram and Twitter, businesses and organisations can communicate and interact with their customers in a way that has never existed before. However, businesses must learn how to appropriately and effectively utilise these networked publics, as there are often undesirable consequences from poorly executed social media promotion (Boyd, 2010). This critique will explore Calvin Klein’s #mycalvins social media campaign. Factors that contributed to the ‘social media fail’ will be discussed, which will also be followed by recommendations for the company.

In 2016, Calvin Klein launched their Spring collection with a star-studded social media campaign. Featuring various celebrities, the campaign launched via Instagram, consisting individual photos of the celebrities wearing Calvin Klein apparel with the strapline “I____ in #mycalvins” overlaid onto each image. For example, Justin Bieber “dreams” in his Calvins and Kendrick Lamar “reflects” in his (Campaigns of the World, 2016). Despite the campaign achieving vast success, with 4.5 million interactions between users after just four months of the tag launching (Leo, 2016), the campaign has received unpleasant backlash after some of the advertisements were released.

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The company put up a billboard in Soho, New York City which features a provocatively-posed image of actress Klara Kristin in her Calvin Klein apparel with the text “I seduce in #mycalvins”, directly next to male rapper Fetty Wap with the text “I make money in #mycalvins” (Campaigns of the World, 2016). Lingerie company ThirdLove’s CEO Heidi Zak argued that the poorly paired ads perpetuate sexist 1950s stereotypes about men and woman, propagating that women are nothing more than sexual objects, while men are the breadwinners (Stern, 2016).

In another Calvin Klein series of images from the #mycalvins campaign, the company has made a similar mistake, in which they took it on a highly-sexualised theme. The most provocative picture in the series features an ‘upskirt’ photograph of actress Klara Kristin looking down with the strapline “I flash in #mycalvins”. The photo was posted along with the comment: “Take a peek: @karate_katiaphotographed by @harleyweir for the Spring 2016 campaign. #mycalvins” (Birchall, 2016).

Immediate and disturbed reactions from a huge amount of Instagram and Twitter users had surfaced, as several commenters slammed the photo as “disgusting”, “trashy and repulsive”, “pathetic” as well as “misogynistic” (Birchall, 2016), while some pointed out that the photo was “pornography” (Hudson, 2016). Some suggested that the girl in the photo appeared to be underage in the photo, which would appeal to paedophiles, which then the company was accused of hypothetically peddling in child pornography. For example, one twitter user tweeted “@CalvinKlein Shame. Giving every paedophile a peek up a 12-year-olds skirt. Just wrong” (Hudson, 2016).

Several practical and theoretical misunderstandings of social media strategy are apparent in these few images for this campaign, which contributed to this social media “fail”. When designing a social media strategy, general considerations include: purpose, research, platforms, reporting, incentives and resourcing (Cassidy, 2017). In this case, the lack of research has contributed to the fail as Calvin Klein had failed to research into their target audience and certain opinions they might have before launching the campaign on social media. Within the recent decades, sexism and women objectification have been heated topics in the modern society as an increasing amount of people are starting to have opinions in this subject, in which viewpoints like “women and men are equal” and “women are not sexual objects” are forwarded to promote gender equality and the breakdown of gender stereotypes across the world. Therefore, ads that may possibly include a sexism message or anything similar in that nature should not have been released.

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Moreover, factors such as cultural positioning, sociotechnical convergence and new media cultures affect our ethics with new media (Cassidy, 2017). In this modern society that we are living in where anti-sexism is becoming more dominant, new media has been culturalised and the way many audiences view ‘pornography’ has been distorted. Social and technical networks are merging together due to sociotechnical convergence; therefore, the way social networking sites is shaped has also altered. Some users might find images from the ads provocative and some might not see a problem at all. However, Calvin Klein should not eliminate the possibility that some of their audiences might be offended by the ads.

On the other hand, it had become well established that nation states had both the right to regulate, and an interest in regulating the internet as it had become part of our daily social life (Edwards 2009: 626). Consequently, existing laws and regulations can be applied to social media. Some social media users suggested that the ‘upskirt’ image featuring Klara Kristin was ‘pornography’. Calvin Klein might have violated the ‘Terms of Use’ on social media for posting sexual content as it is mentioned in the document that the content posted must not include indecent, obscene, pornographic or otherwise inappropriate language, information or other content (Queensland Law Society, 2017). However, it was assumed that the company escaped the consequences of it due to their global popularity, as one person wrote “It is illegal to take a picture of someone under their skirt. How amazing that your pornographic image (which would be illegal if it were someone else) is what you have reverted to sell your items” (Verhoeven, 2016). The company should have considered the appropriateness of the content they are posting and the possibility of their content being restricted or deleted under internet governance.

Calvin Klein has also taken advantage of the affordances, particularly the spreadability and scalability of Instagram and Twitter. Using the hashtag #mycalvins, the company aimed to potentially reach to a wider audience and gain popularity for their brand campaign. However, the scalability of content in networked publics have been underestimated and unacknowledged. Reactions can’t be predicted as people choose what to spread and how they spread it and it is one of the key characteristics of today’s participatory culture (Jenkins 2006). Therefore, users can spread and amplify negative content using hashtags and they can easily be searched, which further emphasises the significance of ensuring a suitable and professional response framework. In this case, some twitter users include the #mycalvins hashtag to spread negative feedbacks in respond to the over-sexualised ads, as seen in the tweet below:

To avoid the nasty situation this campaign has created, many social media strategies could have been implemented to potentially improve the campaign’s success and to eradicate negative outcomes. Undertaking quality research is one of the most significant strategies as the more you know, the more relevant you can be (Cassidy, 2017). Specifically, surveys and interviews could be undertaken for a data analysis for the campaign development. Without decreasing the level of engagement with customers, this would avoid public shame and damage to the brand reputation. Ensuring the company is delivering appropriate messages would also essentially change how the brand is being presented and the way audience vision it. Acknowledging beliefs or opinions target audience might have would help to avoid major backlash as it is said that the internet will foster a generation of users that are more socially aware and culturally sensitive by 2020 (Khor and Marsh, 2006). As communication is becoming increasingly more fragmented and intimate, it is key to know who holds the power to spread the content posted. Although hashtags are designed to spread content on social media, it is fundamental to be aware of the affordances these networked publics have as they tend to highlight both positive and negative issues to the public. The company could focus on creating a campaign that does not require much user participation but would still engage with audience and gain popularity, for example sponsoring celebrities to promote their apparel on social media which might influence what the audience consume. To build a respectable reputation and ensure success, everything should be perfectly planned in every aspect and risks should be carefully assessed.

It is evident that there are several complexities surrounding use of social media in professional practice that Calvin Klein have misunderstood which contributed to the ‘fail’. Recommendations and strategies which might have avoided the mistakes that was made have been suggested for the company’s future success. It is only right to have a change in plan as new media culture and consumer ethics will only continue to change in the evolution of technology.


Resources

Boyd, d. (2010). Social Network Sites as Networked Publics: Affordances, Dynamics and Implications. In d. boyd, Networked Self: Identity, Community and Culture on Social Network Sites (pp. 39-58).

Birchall, G. (2016). Calvin Klein blasted online over ‘trashy and repulsive’ upskirt Instagram advert. [online] Adelaidenow.com.au. Available at: http://www.adelaidenow.com.au/lifestyle/fashion/calvin-klein-blasted-online-over-trashy-and-repulsive-upskirt-instagram-advert/news-story/2d4250e066fda867211e6d2d5f7ec596 [Accessed 30 May 2017].

Campaigns of The World. (2016). Calvin Klein Spring 2016 Ad Campaign – #mycalvins. [online] Available at: https://campaignsoftheworld.com/outdoor/calvin-klein-spring-2016-ad-campaign-mycalvins/ [Accessed 30 May 2017].

Cassidy, Elija. 2017. “KCB206 Social Media, Self & Society: Week 8 .pptx” Available at: https://blackboard.qut.edu.au/bbcswebdav/pid-6789699-dt-content-rid-8347265_1/xid-8347265_1 [Accessed 29 May 2017]

Cassidy, Elija. 2017. “KCB206 Social Media, Self & Society: Week 11 .pptx” Available at: https://blackboard.qut.edu.au/bbcswebdav/pid-6810569-dt-content-rid-8594913_1/xid-8594913_1 [Accessed 29 May 2017]

Edwards, L., 2009, ‘Pornography, Censorship, and the Internet’, in L. Edwards and C. Waedle (eds.), Law and the Internet (3rd Edition), Hart Publishing, Oxford: 623-670.

Hudson, J. (2016). Calvin Klein Under Fire for Overtly Sexual Ad Campaign: ‘This Is F*cking Disgusting’. [online] Breitbart. Available at: http://www.breitbart.com/big-hollywood/2016/05/11/calvin-klein-overtly-sexual-ad-campaign-disgusting/ [Accessed 30 May 2017].

Jenkins, H. (2006). Convergence culture. 1st ed. New York [u.a.]: New York Univ. Press.

Khor, Zoe and Peter Marsh. 2006. “Life Online: The Web in 2020.” Social Issues Research Centre on behalf of Rackspace Managed Hosting. Available at: www.sirc.org/publik/web2020.pdf

Leo, S. (2016). #MyCalvins campaign takes over the internet. [online] Truly Deeply – Brand Agency Melbourne. Available at: http://www.trulydeeply.com.au/brand-engagement/mycalvins-viral-campaign-advertising-brand/ [Accessed 30 May 2017].

Queensland Law Society. (2017). Social media usage. [online] Available at: http://www.qls.com.au/About_QLS/Site_policies_disclaimers/Social_media_usage [Accessed 30 May 2017].

Stern, C. (2016). Calvin Klein removes controversial billboard saying Fetty Wap is ‘making money’ while a scantily-clad actress ‘seduces’ after furious protesters labeled the campaign ‘sexist’. [online] Mail Online. Available at: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-3502932/Calvin-Klein-removes-controversial-billboard-saying-Fetty-Wap-making-money-scantily-clad-actress-seduces-furious-protesters-labeled-campaign-sexist.html [Accessed 30 May 2017].

Verhoeven, B. (2016). Calvin Klein Blasted for ‘Soft Porn’ Up-the-Skirt Ad: ‘Child Porn,’ ‘Disgusting,’ ‘Creepy’ (Photo). [online] TheWrap. Available at: http://www.thewrap.com/calvin-klein-upskirt-underwear-ad-child-porn-disgusting-creepy-instagram-twitter/ [Accessed 30 May 2017].

 

 

 

 

Social Media in the Fashion Industry

Social media has become a technology that cannot be lived without in today’s humanity. Being described as a ‘mediapolis’, today’s society is “a comprehensibly mediated public space where media underpin and overarch the experience and expressions of everyday life” (Deuze, 2011). With the augmented integration of social media into our everyday life, the business world has been fundamentally altered, while the non-digital portion of business is mostly stagnating or even shrinking (Acker, 2015). Businesses and marketers have adapted consumers’ culture into marketing strategies which enables consumers to be more active hence more profit is to be made. Affordances that are provided by this advance of a techno-social hybrid economy have enabled spreadability of different contexts for both businesses and consumers.

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In the fashion industry, social media platforms like Facebook, Snapchat and Instagram can be used to interact with consumers, as a means of networking with others in the industry, and as a way of building an online presence (Sellors, 2014). Since interaction with consumers is encouraged, awareness of the fashion industry is increased that it is almost like “the floodgates have been opened for a new generation” (Highsnobiety, 2015). Affordances provided by social media has enabled so many business opportunities. For example, the latest Instagram feature which is the live video sharing feature, was debuted for the first time in the recent fashion season in November (McDowell, 2017). During the main fashion weeks held in New York, London, Paris and Milan, runway shows of luxury brands like Dior and Versace were shared with their Instagram audience live, enabling them to view the latest season of fashion and add comments and likes. Mentioned by the Instagram head of fashion partnerships Eva Chen, “people like that raw, ‘I am sitting right there’ feeling’”, which makes the Instagram live feature extremely suitable for streaming live runway shows (McDowell, 2017).

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Spreadability of digital media has notably changed the operation of the fashion industry. The main characteristic of social media is that ‘they are spreadable media’ by Henry Jenkins (Jenkins, 2009): “Consumers play an active role in ‘spreading’ content […] Consumers in this model are […] grassroots advocates for materials which are personally and socially meaningful to them” (Jenkins et al. 2009, part 2). Media is actively shaped by how it is spread by audiences. It is argued that spreadable media “empower” consumers and “make” them an integral part’ of commodity’s success (Jenkins et al. 2009, part 8). The variety of possible markets for a brand is extended and the devotion of consumers is intensified by increased sentimental attachment to the brand. Consumers are able to feel more attached and involved in fashion and the industry itself. Since media is needed to be spread frequently to receive attention, the fashion industry would not be able to survive without the presence of social media.

Fashion brands are encouraged to work with celebrities with high followings on social media to promote their products, in hope of spreading their businesses to a larger audience. This is seen in brands like Coach and Tommy Hilfiger, which have collaborated with Selena Gomez and Gigi Hadid respectively. It is conducted that Selena Gomez, who has 116 million followers on Instagram, amplifies a post by 55 percent, while Gigi Hadid, who has 32 million followers, amplifies it by 46 percent (Fernandez, 2016). Explained by the mentioned examples, social media is used as a marketing strategy to manage market shrinkage in fashion and luxury markets (Mohr, 2013). With these marketing strategies, contexts about the industry are spread using social media, which enables a greater exposure to consumers. This also constructs a positive brand identity as designers are able to enhance the connection celebrities have with their fans. As these celebrities are high profile influencers, fans tend to follow what they are wearing and are often convinced to purchase items just to look like them.

On platforms like Instagram and Twitter, hashtags are also used to spread media into viral content. For example, the fashion brand Calvin Klein has adapted the use of hashtags in their social campaign, with #mycalvins being the trending hashtag which allows the public to post themselves in their Calvin Klein outfits when submitting their photos on social media platforms. Communication has been fortified and businesses are allowed to draw visions from the feedback from the public that they are receiving. Consumers are encouraged to share content and get involved into public discussions using social networking sites and user-generated sites. Applying the strategy of spreading content using social media, searchability is reinvigorated. It has allowed consumers to purchase what they have seen and what has been trending while they are still presence in the media. The hashtag feature in social media platforms assist the public to search for particular fashion items and trends. All information that are recorded on networked publics are searchable, enabling audience to view information as long as they are available.

Social media, as a participatory culture, has benefitted creators and designers in the fashion industry to adapt consumer’s ideas and feedbacks, in order to improve their creations. Participatory culture is defined as culture “in which fans and other consumers are invited to actively participate in the creation and circulation of new content” (Jenkins 2008, 331). It also involves “participants who interact with each other” (Jenkins 2008, 3). Some fashion designers seek inspiration from their audience. The ZAC Zac Posen’s Spring-Summer Ready to Wear 2015 Collection is influenced by comments and suggestions from his over 640,000 Instagram followers (Sellors, 2014). With the assistance of social media, Posen has been inspired by his wide range of audience. Since Instagram is a platform that allows the public to comment on each other’s posts and interact with people who have the same interests, fashion brands are using this opportunity to increase user’s engagement by crowdsourcing new content from their consumers.

With increased integration of social media into our everyday life, the fashion industry has been impacted and benefitted. Companies and brands are able to use various marketing strategies in the presence of social media platforms. Affordances that are provided boost business opportunities in ways such as live streaming fashion shows on Instagram. Moreover, to spread awareness and media, brands include celebrities in their promotions and often use the hashtag feature to create ‘trends’ that consumers are tend to follow or get influenced. Social media, as a participatory culture, also encourages consumers to share content, participate in creating new content and interact with the public, further enabling fashion creators and designers to get inspiration from their audience. By this advance of a techno social economy, the fashion industry will continue to evolve and become more effective with the innovation of new digital technologies.


References

Acker, O. (2015). The impact of digitalisation and the internet on the creative industries in Europe. [online] Available at: http://www.strategyand.pwc.com/media/file/The-digital-future-of-creative-Europe- 2015.pdf [Accessed 4 Apr. 2017].

Deuze, M., 2011. Media life. Media, Culture and Society, Volume 33, pp. 1-12.

Fernandez (2016. Snapchat, Facebook or Instagram: Who Is Winning the Social Media Shopping Race? | Fashion-Tech | The Business of Fashion. [ONLINE] Available at: https://www.businessoffashion.com/articles/fashion-tech/who-is-winning-the- social-media-shopping-race. [Accessed 21 March 2017].

Highsnobiety. (2015). Has Social Media had a Positive Impact on the Fashion Industry?. [online] Available at: http://www.highsnobiety.com/2015/04/08/has- social-media-had-a-positive-impact-on-the-fashion-industry/ [Accessed 4 Apr. 2017].

Jenkins, H. (2009). Convergence culture. 1st ed. New York [u.a.]: New York Univ. Press.

McDowell, M. (2017). Instagram Live Makes Fashion Week Debut. [online] WWD. Available at: http://wwd.com/business-news/media/instagram-live-new-york-fashion-week-eva-chen-10783840/ [Accessed 8 Apr. 2017].

Mohr, I. 2013, “The Impact of Social Media on the Fashion Industry”, The Journal of Applied Business and Economics, vol. 15, no. 2, pp. 17.

Sellors, A., 2014. Social Media Influences on Fashion | Social Media Today. [ONLINE] Available at: http://www.socialmediatoday.com/content/social- media-influences-fashion. [Accessed 21 March 2017].

 

Art as fashion and fashion as art

Fashion and art are two subjects that are often discussed together, but should they be kept apart in two separate worlds? While the fashion industry bears some relations to the art industry, is one more superior than the other? It’s all rather debatable. This essay aims to summarise and analyse the main points of Isabelle Graw’s argument surrounding this controversial topic in her chapter ‘The Latest Fashion: On art as fashion and fashion as art’ in the book Fashion and imagination; about clothes and art (2009). It also provides an overview of the group discussion that took place on Monday the 26th of August at the DFB305 class on this specific topic.

The author Isabelle Graw, who is an art critic, argues that the fashion and art industries influence and adopt from each other, but fashion seems to have more negative influences on art. Using Longchamp’s collection with Tracey Emin as an example, the author suggests that the fashion industry is fascinated and interested with the art industry, and that it’s always viewed art with “a certain disdain” (Graw, 2009, p. 45). As art is often seen as something elite, fashion brands tend to expect a great deal from art as it gives them an “artistic aura” (Graw, 2009, p. 48). However, it has occurred that the art world seems to be increasingly “exhibiting the features” of the fashion world. It is proposed that fashion is one of the most important “normative frameworks in our society” (Graw, 2009, p. 46), and hidden references of fashion are apparent in artistic methods and subject choices, which has positioned fashion in relation to art. Artists and art dealers are also acquiring celebrity status or getting into lifestyle press, resulting in art losing its “pureness” and “capacity to intimidate” (Graw, 2009, p. 46). They use fashion to generate respect and trust; and as a reflection to their art and individuality. This results in the art industry heading towards a visual industry, which further merges lines between fashion and art. This essentially means that the artistic work itself is no longer the decisive factor of the success of artists, but rather their personal performance or demeanour.

Based on the author’s personal opinion, fashion and art are two different investments, and they are consumed by two different markets. The author first elaborated this point by stating that the fashion industry deals with “a real industry” with mass production and consumption, while the art market is “small and comprehensive” (Graw, 2009, p. 50). As the fashion industry is rather commercialised, it takes a lot for designers who are more towards an artistic route, for example John Galliano and Vivienne Westwood, to sell their products or to be seen as important as other commercialised designers to the general public. The difference between the value of fashion and art is that the value of art is decided by “criteria” rather than “economy” (Graw, 2009, p. 47). As art has a lower demand, artists have more freedom financially, especially since success can equal recognition without money involved, unlike in fashion where the success of fashion shows determine the amount of customers. By suggesting that the value of designer clothing is diminished by the day while the value of certain artistic works increases with time, the author also explains that fashion is something to be consumed very quickly and that it is dominated by short-term thinking, whilst art, on the other hand, circulate on the market like “pure objects of exchange” and is never swallowed up in commerce. Although the author seems to favour art more than fashion, she further suggests that the best and only way to compare the two industries in the same light is when comparing the system of haute couture, and the art system, as both are aimed for “an exclusive public”. Since haute couture is the “avant-garde” in the fashion world, it recalls the idea of independent art.

With references of a few different academic pieces, the author argues that the idea of imitation has dominated the consumer market. Designer fashion, in Graw’s words, is “much more democratic than art” though it somehow still has an “extremely elite reputation” (Graw, 2009, p. 54). It has become accessible to everyone, and consumers could easily find cheap versions of high-end clothing hanging in fast fashion stores like Zara and H&M. It almost invites consumers to be more involved with fashion as it is often tied with wealth and social privileges. With the democratisation of fashion, the price of designer fashion brutally shows that fashion is the medium by which social inequality is expressed. Something that the author finds contradicting though, is the connection between consumers’ desire to be unique and their act of imitation. As fashion is used as a medium to “articulate our identity and individuality” (Graw, 2009, p. 55), the customisation and modification of clothing have become a phenomenon under the influence of fashion magazines such as Vogue and Cosmopolitan, in which readers are encouraged to put together or customise their own ensembles. However, this phenomenon, in Graw’s words, only “leads to aesthetic continuity”, which encourages imitation to take place. Imitation, as the author defines it, is indeed a principle that “gives shape to the process of individualisation” (Graw, 2009, p. 56). This is also especially apparent in today’s celebrity culture as celebrities are often used for “commercial purposes” by fashion brands. Celebrities act as role models to consumers, in which consumers are so interested in their lives that they imitate the style and personality of celebrities. Comparing fashion and art in this case, it is proposed that many artists, too, function like fashion brands and uses style to communicate personality, which ties back to one of the points mentioned earlier on the art industry heading towards a visual industry. Artists feel the need to establish themselves as recognisable and reliable brands with an identity that they often turn to conveying a brand that everybody else is conveying too. However, the author defends the art industry by pointing out that this is due to art not being able to be effectively used as a form of identification, therefore explains why artists have to turn to public performance to give shape to their self-image.

In the group discussion that took place in the DFB305 class on this topic, everyone involved had different opinions on the topic. The following are a few key points that were discussed. With slight references to Monica Titton’s article ‘Andy’s Heritage: Collaborations between Fashion, Art and Louis Vuitton’ (2014), it was suggested that within fashion-art collaborations, the fame and success of artists have become the essential factors to determine an artist’s contribution to such conversation. As we live in a capitalist world where the “sell- out culture” dominates the market, artists like Richard Prince, who collaborated with Louis Vuitton are concerned that they would be seen as a “sell out”. This brought us to the discussion of whether consumption is more important than the production of fashion. The production process of fashion is the reason why fashion could be considered art, while consumption, especially democratised fashion, takes away the art in fashion and separates fashion from art. This further provoked the debate between functionalism and conceptualism. As avant-garde fashion favours conceptualism over functionalism, some came to the conclusion that the artistic work should be kept high-end and elite as functionality reduces the value of such work, while some voiced their support for the democratisation of this form of art. However, the elitism of art is made to be something so “unattainable” but yet so easy to appropriate, as seen in fast fashion today, which in fact, is a symbol of the democratisation of art in fashion. When touching on the subject of commercialisation of designer fashion, it was also pointed out that most online fashion influencers nowadays are clueless about the relations between fashion and art; and they rather just use fashion that appear to be high-end as a projection on their wealth, social status and popularity. Although fashion is usually more artistic and aesthetically pleasing on the body, it could be misused by consumers who aren’t aware of the artistic work that goes behind it.

To conclude Graw’s article, it is clear that she compares art and fashion with a biased point of view, in which she ensured her words and tone throughout the article would convey that the art industry is in a way more ‘superior’ than the fashion industry. With mass consumerism and the democratisation of fashion, fashion is drifting further away from art, and since fashion is somehow linked to art, the author is almost suggesting that fashion is “polluting” the pureness of art. However, art certainly has become this vague subject that is so hard to pinpoint. Literally anything can be considered art, so shouldn’t we just try to respect the different features that both art and fashion bring to the market and treat them equally instead of constantly comparing the two?


References

Graw, I. (2009). The Latest Fashion: On art as fashion and fashion as art. Fashion and imagination; about clothes and art, 44-
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Titton, M. (2014). Andy’s Heritage – Collaborations between Fashion, Art and Louis Vuitton. Aesthetic Politics in Fashion, 61-75. https://www.academia.edu/36002922/Andy_s_Heritage_Collaborations_between_Fas hion_Art_and_Louis_Vuitton